Alcoutim Velho

Alcoutim is small enough to walk across in a few minutes, and the older part of the town, on the slope between the riverside and the castle, has the compact layout of a settlement that has been defended for a thousand years. It sits on the west bank of the Guadiana, in the far east of the Algarve, with the Spanish village of Sanlúcar de Guadiana on the opposite shore. The streets of the old quarter climb steeply from the quay toward the hilltop, and the town's museums are scattered along them, which makes a wander through them a good way of getting a sense of the place.

The castle at the top is the starting point. It occupies the site of a much older fortification, and archaeological excavations in and around it have revealed Islamic remains, which show that the hill was occupied from the early medieval period until the 13th century, when the Christian conquest brought the area under Portuguese rule. The digs uncovered lines of walls, towers and the foundations of houses, with traces of kitchens and fireplaces, which give a picture of everyday life in a small frontier town of al-Andalus. The finds, among them pottery, tools and household objects, are shown in the archaeology museum housed in the castle, whose rooms are compact and well presented. The medieval castle that stands today dates largely from the 14th century, and its walls, towers and courtyard can be explored freely.

Below the castle, the town has two other museums that tell different parts of its story. A museum devoted to the river explains how the Guadiana shaped life here, with its boats, fishing and smuggling and the trade in the minerals of the interior, and a museum of religious art in the old parish area displays sculptures and church objects from the region. The museums share a ticket valid for a week, so visitors can spread them across a few days. Opening hours vary by season, with a midday break and closures on some days, and it is best to check the hours at the tourist office in the main square.

The parish church, the Igreja Matriz, stands in the old quarter, along with a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Conception, and the Praça da República, the main square, has the town hall and a few cafes under the trees. The pace is slow, and the area is quiet even in summer, which makes a stay appealing for those who want to avoid the crowds of the coast. Weaving and other crafts have a tradition in the area, and local shops sell handmade goods, honey, olive oil and the regional spirit made from the fruit of the arbutus tree.

The old town is easy to explore in a couple of hours. Wear comfortable shoes for the slopes, and bring a hat in summer, since shade is limited on the castle hill. The visit suits history lovers and anyone who enjoys small towns off the beaten track.