Ribeira de Alcoutim

The Ribeira de Alcoutim is the small stream that runs down into the Guadiana at the foot of the town, and its mouth is the spot where Alcoutim meets the river. The Guadiana here forms the border between Portugal and Spain, and the little town of Alcoutim sits on the Portuguese bank, looking straight across the water at the whitewashed Spanish village of Sanlúcar de Guadiana. The two settlements are so close that you can see people walking in the streets opposite and hear church bells ring from the other side, and this closeness is the defining feature of the place.

The river is the area's long highway. For centuries, the Guadiana carried boats loaded with copper, minerals and goods between the mines of the interior and the sea, and the towns along its banks lived from that traffic and from smuggling across the border. Today, the river is quiet, and the border is invisible, but the signs of history are everywhere. Above Alcoutim, the castle, which dates from the Middle Ages and has Islamic roots, keeps watch over the water, and the Castelo Velho, the Old Castle, on a nearby hill, is the site of an earlier Islamic fortification. On the Spanish side, the castle of San Marcos stands over Sanlúcar, and a line of white windmills marks the ridge behind.

What you do here is mostly gentle. A path leads along the riverside, with gardens, a small beach where locals bathe in summer and benches under trees, and the stream itself runs through the town beneath old bridges. In season, small boats cross the river between Alcoutim and Sanlúcar, a short trip that allows you to say you have had lunch in another country, and cruises carry passengers up and down the Guadiana to see the landscape. For those who prefer adventure, a long zip line has been strung across the river between the two countries, so that thrill-seekers can fly from Spain to Portugal over the water.

The landscape behind is wild and empty. Hills covered with cistus, cork oaks and holm oaks roll away to the east and west, and walking and cycling routes cross them. This part of the Algarve is far from the beach resorts, and it attracts people looking for peace and nature. The Guadiana valley is also a good area for birdwatching, with raptors, storks and, in winter, many waterfowl.

Practical points: the town is small, with a handful of cafes, restaurants and guesthouses, and services are limited, so plan ahead. Summers are very hot, and spring and autumn are the best seasons. A car is the easiest way to arrive, since public transport is sparse. The area suits those who like quiet places, river scenery and history, and who are happy to have time to spare.