Boat Trip Through The Gilão River/Ria Formosa

Tavira stands on the Gilão river, a short way from the sea, and the river has defined the town's life. A Roman bridge, restored many times and now used only by pedestrians, crosses it in the centre, and the old quays, once crowded with fishing boats and trading vessels, line its banks. A boat trip from the town follows the river downstream to the Ria Formosa lagoon, and it is one of the best ways to see how closely the town, the water and the coast are linked.

The route begins in the centre of Tavira, past the old houses, with their tiled roofs and wrought-iron balconies, and the bridge, then follows the river as it widens toward the sea. On the way, you pass fishermen's boats and the first salt pans, whose white rectangles of evaporating water have been part of the landscape since Roman times. The lagoon is a maze of channels, mudflats and low islands, sheltered from the Atlantic by the long sandbar of the Ilha de Tavira, and it supports a wide variety of life. Flamingos, spoonbills, herons, avocets and other waders feed on the flats, particularly outside the summer months, and boat guides point them out.

The region's fishing heritage is part of the story. Tavira was once one of the main centres of tuna fishing in Portugal, and giant traps were set off the coast every spring to catch the migrating fish. The tuna fishing industry has gone, but the old settlements that supported it, such as the one now known as the Arraial Ferreira Neto on the island, survive as holiday villages. Nearby, the fishing village of Santa Luzia is known as the octopus capital of Portugal, and you can see the clay and plastic pots used to catch octopus stacked on the quay and floating in the channels.

Trips are usually run by small operators, last about two hours, and often include a stop on the island for a swim and a walk on the beach. Departures and prices vary, and some boats leave from the town quay while others start at the departure point for the island ferries a little downstream, so check where to board. The boats are small and open, with some shade, and the sea in the lagoon is calm. Bring a hat, sun cream, water and binoculars, and go in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is best for photographs and the birds are most active.

A trip makes a good addition to a day in Tavira, with its old castle, churches and bridge. It suits families, nature lovers and anyone who likes to see a place from the water. Check the tides, since low water may change the route.