Tavira Castle

Tavira Castle stands on the hill above the old centre of the town, overlooking the Gilão river, and it offers one of the best views of Tavira's rooftops. The site has been fortified since the Muslim period, when Tavira was an important town in the Algarve of al-Andalus, and the remains of the walls date largely from the 13th century, after the Christian conquest in 1242. Paio Peres Correia, the master of the Order of Santiago, took the town, and the castle was rebuilt and used as a stronghold for the new rulers. Only parts of the original structure survive today, since the 1755 earthquake and later changes damaged the walls and towers.

What remains is a compact, irregular enclosure, with sections of wall linked by towers and a gate, now converted into a garden. Inside the walls the ground has been laid out with paths, flower beds, and trees, so the castle is as much a park as a monument. Orange trees, figs, and flowering shrubs grow among the old stones, and benches provide places to rest. The atmosphere is peaceful, particularly in the morning or late afternoon, and the contrast between the old fortifications and the soft garden is part of the appeal.

The real reward is the view. From the walls and towers you look across a sea of the town's characteristic roofs, with their four-sided pitched tiles, over the church towers and the Roman bridge, to the river and the salt pans beyond. On clear days the line of the barrier islands and the sea are visible on the horizon. Photographers favour the late afternoon, when the light is warm and the roofs glow. Directly next to the castle stands the church of Santa Maria do Castelo, built on the site of a mosque, which is worth a visit for its tombs and architecture.

The castle is a short, gentle climb from the main square, along cobbled lanes, and can be combined with the old town, the churches, and the riverside. Entry arrangements, hours, and any charges can change, so check locally. The ground is uneven and there are some steps, so wear sensible shoes.

The castle suits history readers, photographers, and anyone who wants a calm place to sit and look at the town. Allow about forty minutes, and combine it with a visit to the camera obscura in the old water tower, which gives a different view of the same roofs.