Church Of The Holy Mile (Igreja Do Santíssimo Milagre)

The Church of the Holy Miracle in Santarém is one of the most important sites of Eucharistic devotion in Portugal, and it draws pilgrims who come to see a relic associated with a miracle said to have taken place in the 13th century. It stands in the old centre of the town, in a quiet street, and from the outside, it is a modest building. The interest lies in the story and in what happens inside.

The legend is well known in Santarém. According to tradition, in the middle of the 13th century, a woman who was unhappy in her marriage went to a sorceress for help in winning back her husband's affection, and the sorceress told her to bring a consecrated host from the church. The woman took the host during Mass, wrapped it in a cloth and hurried home. On the way, the host began to bleed, and the cloth was stained with blood. At home, she hid the bundle in a chest, but the chest began to shine with light, and the woman, frightened, confessed to her husband. The couple summoned the parish priest, who recognised the sign, and the host was taken in procession to the church, which then took on the name Church of the Holy Miracle. The story is recounted in local histories and is part of the town's identity, and it has been the subject of devotion for centuries.

The church that stands today has medieval origins, and it was rebuilt and altered in later centuries, particularly in the 16th and 17th centuries, so that it shows a mixture of styles. The interior is relatively simple, with a nave and side chapels, thick columns supporting the roof and a Baroque altar. Above the main altar, in a small chamber at the top of the altarpiece, the reliquary containing the miraculous host is kept, in a crystal container, and visitors can see it by climbing a narrow staircase behind the altar. Queues sometimes form, particularly on feast days and weekends, and visitors are expected to be quiet and respectful as they pass. The church is a living place of worship, and pilgrims often come in prayer.

Visiting requires some consideration. The church is not open all day, and hours are limited, with closures at lunchtime and during services, so check at the tourist office for the timetable. Dress modestly, avoid taking photographs of the relic unless it is permitted, and follow the instructions of the staff. The visit takes about twenty to thirty minutes.

The church lies a short walk from the other sights of Santarém, among them the Gothic churches of Graça and Marvila, the viewpoint at the Portas do Sol and the diocesan museum, so it fits easily into a morning in the old town. It suits pilgrims and those interested in religious folklore.