Praça Sá Da Bandeira

Praça Sá da Bandeira is the main civic square in the upper town of Santarém, the old city on a bluff above the Tagus. It takes its name from the Marquês de Sá da Bandeira, a 19th-century soldier and statesman who was born in Santarém and is remembered in Portuguese history as a leading liberal politician and an opponent of the slave trade. The square is a good place to begin, because the town's old churches, gardens, and viewpoints are all within easy walking distance.

Santarém is sometimes called the capital of Portuguese Gothic, and the setting reflects its long history as an important town at the head of the Ribatejo plain. The streets around the square have a mix of buildings, from older stone houses to 19th-century town houses with iron balconies. Cafés, pastry shops, and restaurants line the edges, and the pace of life is relaxed. Residents use the square as a meeting place, and in the morning you can see people reading newspapers, chatting on benches, or heading to nearby shops.

From here it is easy to build a walking tour of the old town. The Igreja da Graça, one of the finest Gothic churches in Portugal, is a short walk away, as are the Igreja de Marvila, the Misericórdia church, and the church that preserves the story of the Santíssimo Milagre, a medieval Eucharistic miracle associated with the town. The Jardim das Portas do Sol, a terraced garden on the edge of the bluff, offers wide views over the Tagus and the flat fields below, and it is one of the best places to watch the sunset. The Museu Diocesano, in a former seminary, is also in the area.

The square itself has no entrance fee and no formal sights to queue for, so it is easy to fit into a day. Spring and autumn are pleasant for walking, while summer afternoons can be hot, and evenings are lively when local people come out. The streets near the square slope, so comfortable shoes help.

It suits travellers who like to start with an orientation point, those who enjoy small-town cafés, and visitors planning a day trip from Lisbon. Allow a few hours to explore the old town properly, with a break for coffee in the square.