St. Francis Convent

The Convento de São Francisco in Santarém is one of the largest Gothic churches in Portugal, and it is a striking sight because part of it is open to the sky. It was built by the Franciscans, the order of friars who preached poverty and lived among the townspeople, and who settled in Santarém in the 13th century, soon after the order reached Portugal. The convent stands in the historic centre of the town, on the high ground where much of Santarém's religious architecture is concentrated, and it was a major institution in the Middle Ages, when the town was a favoured residence of the kings.

The church follows a plan typical of the great mendicant churches of the period. It has three naves, divided by tall, slender columns that support a high roof, and the nave is spacious and bright, designed for preaching to large congregations. The east end is polygonal, with a number of chapels around the apse, and the stonework is plain, in keeping with Franciscan ideals of simplicity. Gothic architecture here relies on proportion and height rather than carved decoration, so the impact comes from the soaring arches and the sense of space. Part of the roof has been lost over the centuries, so that in some areas the walls rise open to the sky, and the effect is almost romantic, with light falling on stone and plants growing among the ruins.

The convent suffered after the religious orders were dissolved in Portugal in 1834. Like many monastic buildings, it was sold off, used for other purposes, and allowed to decay, and it was only in the 20th century that serious efforts were made to conserve it. Today the church is part of the national heritage, and some of the surrounding buildings have been given new uses. The site is quiet, and few people come, which adds to the atmosphere.

Santarém has several other Gothic churches within walking distance, including the Igreja da Graça with its famous rose window, the Marvila church, and the church of the Santíssimo Milagre. The Jardim das Portas do Sol offers views over the Tagus. A walk between these places makes a good day.

The convent suits history readers, architecture lovers, and photographers. Opening arrangements vary, so check before going, and wear comfortable shoes for the stone surfaces.