Lagoa Verde (Green Lake)

The Lagoa Verde, the Green Lake, is one of a pair of lakes that fill the floor of an enormous volcanic crater at the western end of São Miguel. The crater of Sete Cidades is about five kilometres across, a vast bowl whose walls rise a few hundred metres above the water, and it contains two lakes joined by a narrow channel: the Green Lake and the Blue Lake, the Lagoa Azul. Together they are the most famous scenery in the Azores, and in 2007 Sete Cidades was voted one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Portugal.

The difference in colour between the two lakes is the main attraction, and it is real, though the causes are less romantic than the legend. The tint depends on the water's depth, on algae and plant life, and on the reflection of the sky and surrounding vegetation, and it changes with the light. On a bright day, the green side looks emerald and the blue side deep blue, while under cloud both can look grey. The local story says that a princess and a shepherd fell in love, but the king forbade their marriage, and when they said goodbye, the tears from his green eyes and her blue eyes filled the two lakes. The tale is widely told, and many visitors enjoy it, though geology is the actual author of the scene.

Viewpoints are the best way to see both lakes together. The Vista do Rei, the King's View, on the crater rim, overlooks the whole caldera, with the two lakes, the village of Sete Cidades between them and the patchwork of fields and hydrangea hedges around. A nearby viewpoint, the Cerrado das Freiras, gives another angle, and the road around the rim offers a series of pull-offs. The ruined hotel near the Vista do Rei has become part of the landscape, with graffiti on its walls. In July and August, the roads are lined with blue and pink hydrangeas, which make the view even more photogenic.

Down in the crater, the village of Sete Cidades has a pretty neo-Gothic church and a bridge that crosses the strait between the two lakes. A walking trail circles the rim for about a dozen kilometres, passing through forest and pasture, with constant views of the lakes below, and shorter paths lead down to the water's edge. You can rent kayaks and bicycles in the village, and the roads around the crater are popular with cyclists.

Weather is the key issue. The crater is often shrouded in cloud and mist, and views can disappear in minutes, then reappear. It helps to be patient, to go early in the day and to check the forecast. Entry to the viewpoints is free and open at all times, and a short drive from Ponta Delgada brings you to the rim. Bring a jacket, as it is cooler and windier than on the coast. The lakes suit walkers, photographers and everyone who visits São Miguel.