Medieval Frontier Castle

Chaves lies in the broad valley of the Tâmega, a few kilometres from the Spanish border, and for centuries its position made it one of the key defensive towns in the north of Portugal. The medieval castle that rises above the old town was the core of that defence, and it is a good starting point for understanding why Chaves was fortified, besieged, and rebuilt so many times. The name Chaves comes from the Latin Aquae Flaviae, the Roman town of the Flavian waters, named after its hot springs.

The castle was built in the Middle Ages and strengthened in later periods as the frontier with Castile and then Spain was disputed. Its best-known feature is the tall, square keep, which dominates the skyline, with thick walls and crenellations, and which now houses a small military museum. Around it, a ring of walls, gates, and a courtyard leave an impression of how the garrison lived and protected the town. The ramparts offer wide views over the red-tiled roofs of the town, the river valley, and the surrounding hills, and on clear days you can see far toward Spain.

Around the castle spread the old streets of Chaves, with balconied houses and small squares. Nearby, the Roman bridge across the Tâmega, with its old stone arches and inscribed milestones, is one of the longest surviving Roman bridges in Portugal, and it forms a natural walk from the castle down to the river. The old town also has fortifications from later periods, including 17th-century bastioned forts built after the war of restoration, a reminder that the town was repeatedly in the line of fire, most recently in the Peninsular War, when French troops took Chaves in 1809.

The town is also known for its thermal springs, which rise at a high temperature and have been used since Roman times, and for its food. Smoked ham, sausages, and the small flaky pastries called pastéis de Chaves are local specialities, best sampled in the cafés near the main square.

The castle is easy to reach on foot from the centre, and the climb is short. Hours and fees are set locally, so check before visiting. The castle suits history readers, families, and travellers exploring the interior of the north who want to combine a fortress, a Roman bridge, and a thermal spa in one stop.