Milkees Midnight Espresso

Milkees Midnight Espresso is a small, late-opening café in Lisbon's Príncipe Real, one of the city's most fashionable neighbourhoods, and its idea is simple: good coffee and inventive desserts in the evening, when most cafés in the city have closed. The place has a relaxed, intimate atmosphere and a menu that combines specialty espresso drinks with sweet dishes and, for those who prefer something stronger, a selection of cocktails. It appeals to locals who want a stylish end to a night out and to visitors who prefer something quieter than a bar.

The café keeps evening hours, opening in the late afternoon and closing around midnight on the nights it is open, and it is not open every day of the week, so check the days before making a special trip. The appeal of a late dessert café has grown in Lisbon as the city's food scene has diversified, with younger owners experimenting with pastries, ice cream, and coffee beyond the traditional pastel de nata and bica. Milkees follows that trend, playing with familiar flavours in new forms, and its desserts are designed to be photographed and shared.

The setting adds to the interest. Príncipe Real is a hilltop district of 19th-century mansions, antique shops, designer boutiques, and cafés, centred on a leafy garden with a huge old cedar whose branches are supported by poles, and a pavilion where people meet. A weekend market is held in the square, and a former palace on the corner houses a collection of fashion and design shops. The area is lively in the evening, and the walk from the garden to the nearby Bairro Alto or down toward the Chiado is pleasant. The viewpoint of São Pedro de Alcântara is also close and offers a view across the city toward the castle.

The neighbourhood is on a hill, so the streets are steep and the pavements are often cobbled, and comfortable shoes are important. Public transport, including buses and the metro at Rato, serves the area, and taxis are easy to find late at night.

The café suits couples, friends, and anyone looking for a dessert and a coffee after dinner. It works best as part of an evening walk through the district, and its small size means there may be a wait on busy nights.