Miradouro do Castelo

Alcoutim is a tiny town on the Guadiana, in the far east of the Algarve, and its castle looks over the river and across to Spain. The viewpoint at the castle, the Miradouro do Castelo, is the best place to see the way the two countries face one another. Across the water, a short distance away, the white houses of the Spanish village of Sanlúcar de Guadiana climb a hill crowned by a castle of its own, and the river between is calm and wide.

The castle of Alcoutim, on a hill above the town, is a medieval fortress, with a core usually dated to the 14th century, though it stands on an older site, and some accounts connect its beginnings with the Islamic period, when the hill had a fortification. It was part of the chain of castles that watched the frontier along the Guadiana. Its walls, towers and gate remain, in good condition after restoration, and the inner courtyard offers a pleasant space. The setting made it the site of one of the most unusual diplomatic episodes in Portuguese history. In 1371, King Fernando I of Portugal and King Henry II of Castile met on the river, in boats moored in the middle of the Guadiana, to sign a peace and marriage treaty, known as the Treaty of Alcoutim. According to the chronicles, the two kings negotiated on the water, each with his entourage on the banks, to avoid giving the advantage of territory to the other.

Inside the castle, a small museum displays archaeological finds from the area, including objects from the Islamic period and the Middle Ages, along with items found in the town. The visit is easy and short, and entry is cheap or free depending on the season, with different opening times in winter and summer and a midday closure on some days, so check locally. Groups can arrange guided tours in advance with the municipality. The grounds can be explored freely, and the terraces and walls give views over the river, the town, and the hills of the Algarve and Andalusia.

The viewpoint is best in the late afternoon, when the sun lights the Spanish hillside and the river turns golden, and at sunrise, when mist hangs on the water. Wear comfortable shoes for the climb up the hill, and bring a hat in summer. The town below has a pleasant riverside, small cafes and a quiet square, and from the quay, boats cross to Sanlúcar in the season.

The castle suits history lovers, photographers and those exploring the Guadiana valley. It is a good stop on a drive along the border, combined with a visit to the river beach and the quiet streets.