Miranda Do Douro Fortified City (Historic Center)

Miranda do Douro stands at the far north-eastern corner of Portugal, on a rocky platform above the gorge of the Douro, where the river forms the border with Spain. The setting explains the town's history. It was a frontier stronghold with a castle begun in the late 13th century, and the walls and bastions that once protected it gave it a military importance for centuries. Today it feels remote, at the end of long roads through the highlands of Trás-os-Montes, and the isolation has helped to preserve its character.

The historic centre is compact and made mostly of dark stone, with narrow streets, small squares, and houses with slate roofs and wooden balconies. The cathedral, built in the 16th century when Miranda was made the seat of a diocese, dominates the upper town with its broad front and two square towers, and it is now a co-cathedral. The castle is mostly ruined, as a large explosion of gunpowder stored inside it in 1762 during a Spanish attack destroyed much of the fortress and part of the town. The remains still show the scale of the old defences and offer views along the gorge.

Miranda is also notable for its language. Mirandese, a Romance language distinct from Portuguese and Spanish, is spoken in the area and was given official recognition in 1999, which makes this one of the few places in Portugal with a second official language. Local traditions are strong, especially the dance of the pauliteiros, in which men in embroidered costumes strike sticks together in complex rhythms, performed at festivals. A visit to the town's museum of the Mirandese land, in the old centre, gives a good introduction to its customs, costumes, and crafts.

The river is the other half of the experience. Below the town the Douro runs through a deep rocky canyon that is part of the Douro International Natural Park, and boat trips along the gorge are a popular way to see the cliffs, the birds of prey nesting on them, and the dams. Viewpoints around the town give easy views without a long walk.

It suits history lovers, those interested in languages and traditions, and travellers who like remote places. Allow a full day, and try the local roast veal, known as posta mirandesa, in one of the restaurants.