Óbidos Castle (Castelo De Óbidos)

Óbidos is one of the most picturesque walled towns in Portugal, and its castle, at the highest corner of the walls, is the keystone of the whole. The hill above the plain has been fortified for a very long time, first by Romans and then by the Moors, and it was taken for the Portuguese crown by Afonso Henriques in the mid-12th century. The castle seen today dates mainly from the 12th and 13th centuries, though it was altered later, and its robust walls, square towers, and battlements give a good impression of a medieval stronghold.

The entrance to the town is through the Porta da Vila, a gate built with a double bend, so that attackers would have to turn in a confined space and expose themselves to fire from above. The inner walls of the gate are lined with blue and white tile panels, and a small chapel is set into the passage, so the gate is both a defence and a picture. The wall-walk on top of the ramparts is open to the public, and it is one of the best things to do in Óbidos: you can walk along the top of the wall for much of the circuit, with views over the red-tiled roofs, the whitewashed houses with blue and yellow bands, and the green plain beyond. There are no handrails in many places and the drop is steep, so children and those uneasy with heights need care, and shoes with good grip are essential.

Inside the castle walls the building was converted in the 1950s into a guesthouse, one of the first of the state-run inns, so the interior is not generally open as a museum, but the exterior and the walls are the main attraction. The steep stairs and uneven paving require reasonable fitness. From the castle, the main street, Rua Direita, runs down through the town, lined with shops selling ginjinha, the local cherry liqueur, often served in small cups made of chocolate, and local crafts. A long aqueduct from the 16th century brings water to the town from the hills.

Óbidos has a long tradition of being given by kings to their queens as a wedding gift, which explains its nickname of the Town of the Queens, and it has become known as a literary town, with bookshops in unusual places, even a converted church. The town is busiest at midday, and early morning or evening visits are quieter.

The castle suits families, history readers, photographers, and those who like walking on old walls.