Porta Da Vila

The Porta da Vila, the Town Gate, is the main entrance to Óbidos, and it is one of the most charming gateways in Portugal. Passing through it feels like crossing a threshold between ages: outside is the modern road, and inside is a medieval walled town of white houses, flowers and cobbled lanes. The gate is set in the walls on the south side of the hill, where the road climbs from the plain, and it is the starting point for almost every visit to the town.

Unlike most gates, this one does not offer a straight passage. The entrance is built in a zigzag, with a first arch on the outside, a vaulted passage that turns at a right angle, and a second arch on the far side, so that anyone trying to rush the gate would have to change direction under fire from the walls and towers above. This type of bent entrance was a standard defensive device in medieval fortification, and the Porta da Vila is a good example. The walls themselves date mainly from the Middle Ages, with origins that go back to the Moorish period and the early Portuguese kingdom, and they have been repaired and altered many times since.

The vaulted passage is the surprise. Its walls are lined with blue and white azulejo panels of the 18th century, dating from after the 1755 earthquake, with scenes of devotion and decorative patterns, and a small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, is set into one side. The tiles make the gate feel like an entrance hall as well as a defensive structure, and visitors often stop to look at them. Above the arch, an inscription records a decree of King João IV, who in 1646 declared the Virgin Mary, in her title of Immaculate Conception, patroness of Portugal. It reads, in Portuguese, that the Virgin Our Lady was conceived without original sin, and similar inscriptions were placed on town gates across the country as a statement of faith and loyalty.

Beyond the gate, the town opens up at once. Rua Direita, the main street, begins here, lined with shops and cafes, and the castle rises at the far end of the walls. The walls can be climbed from near the gate, and walking the ramparts, which have no handrail in places, gives a view over the roofs and countryside, so take care with children. The gate is open at all hours and free to pass through, and it is busiest in the middle of the day, when tour groups arrive.

Visit in the early morning or late in the day for a quieter experience and soft light on the stone. Wear good shoes for the cobbles. The gate suits everyone and takes only a few minutes, but it sets the mood for the whole town.