Prazeres Cemetery (Cemitério Dos Prazeres)

The Prazeres Cemetery lies on a hill in the western part of Lisbon, in the Campo de Ourique district, and it is one of the most distinctive places in the city. The no. 28 tram, the yellow line that rattles through the old neighbourhoods, ends here, which gives the visit a certain charm. The cemetery opened in 1833, at the time of a cholera epidemic, when the city needed new burial grounds outside the crowded old churches, and it has grown over the years into a complex of streets and avenues lined with tombs.

What sets it apart is the style of its monuments. Rather than a field of graves, Prazeres is laid out like a small town, with cobbled lanes, street names and rows of tombs shaped like little houses and chapels. Wealthy families of the 19th and early 20th centuries built private mausoleums as miniature buildings, with columns, domes, stained glass, wrought-iron doors and marble sculptures of angels and mourners, and some have lace curtains in the windows and photographs on the walls, which gives them an eerily domestic air. Inside, caskets lie on shelves behind glass or in niches. The variety of styles, from neoclassical and neo-Gothic to Art Nouveau, makes the cemetery an open-air museum of funerary art. The largest of these monuments belongs to the Dukes of Palmela, one of the great noble families of Portugal, and is among the grandest private tombs in Europe.

Tall cypress trees line many of the lanes, adding to the solemn atmosphere, and the cemetery is a green, quiet spot, with cats sunbathing on the tombs. Many of those buried here are prominent in Portuguese history and culture: politicians, soldiers, writers, artists and scientists, as well as members of the nobility. Visitors who enjoy searching out the graves of famous figures can ask at the entrance for a map. At the highest point, there are views over the Tagus and the 25 de Abril Bridge.

Visiting is free, and you can walk around independently, though guided tours are sometimes organised. The cemetery is open daily, with closing times in the late afternoon, so check hours before you go. It is a place of mourning for local families, so behave with respect: speak quietly, dress modestly and do not touch or climb on the monuments. Photography is generally allowed, but be discreet if a funeral is taking place.

The Prazeres is near the Estrela Basilica and garden, and the district of Campo de Ourique has cafes and a good market, so it makes a good addition to a day in west Lisbon. The cemetery suits those interested in history, art and architecture, as well as anyone who finds quiet beauty in unusual places.