Sortelha Castle (17th-century Castle)

Sortelha is a fortified village on a granite outcrop in the Beira Interior, in the municipality of Sabugal in the district of Guarda, and its castle is the highest point of a settlement that is essentially a walled citadel. The village lies close to the old frontier with Spain, and for centuries the Portuguese crown strengthened it as part of the line of defence along the border. The castle, with its tall walls and keep, was built in the Middle Ages, and later periods saw repairs and additions, including work in the 17th century, when the wars that followed the restoration of independence in 1640 made fortifications on the frontier a priority once again.

The settlement and its defences are closely intertwined. The village is enclosed by a ring of walls, with a few gates, and inside it the narrow streets of granite houses climb up to the castle at the top. The granite is the natural rock of the hill, and in many places the houses are built directly onto huge boulders, so that the walls and the rock become one. The effect is of a place that grew out of the ground rather than being placed on it. The castle occupies the summit, with a keep and sections of battlement, and it is reached by a steep climb through cobbled lanes and stone steps.

Walking on the walls is one of the main pleasures. From the ramparts and the castle, the view stretches over the high plateau of the Beira, with its fields, rocky hills, and scattered villages, and on clear days toward the mountains of the Serra da Estrela. The wind blows steadily at this height, and the light on the grey granite changes through the day, turning gold at sunset. Photographers enjoy the combination of stone, sky, and silence.

The village is small, and a visit takes an hour or two. A parish church, chapels, and a stepped path of the Via Sacra lie inside the walls, and a few small shops sell local products such as cheese, honey, and cured meats. The altitude, around 760 metres, means the weather can be cold and windy even in spring and autumn, so a jacket is advisable. Parking is outside the walls, and the climb is steep, so wear shoes with good grip.

The castle suits history readers, photographers, and anyone who enjoys wandering in a small medieval village. Combine it with a visit to the castle of Sabugal nearby.