Vineyards of the Douro Valley

A vineyard in the Douro is a landscape that changes with the year, and understanding the cycle of the vines is the best way to read what you see from the terraces. The Douro valley is among the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world, and the slopes around the estate of Quinta do Seixo, near Valença do Douro, in the middle section of the valley, show the typical features: steep terraces of schist, old vines, and a view down to the river.

The soil is the starting point. The valley is cut into a mass of schist, a dark, layered rock that breaks into flakes, and the vines grow in the cracks, with their roots driving deep to find water in the dry months. The climate is one of extremes, with winters that are cold and wet and summers that are hot and dry, often above 40 degrees, and the combination, together with the shelter of the surrounding mountains, gives the region its character. Many old vineyards, called vinhas velhas, are planted with a mixture of dozens of grape varieties growing side by side, a field blend that is picked and fermented together, and that is part of the tradition of Port wine. Some of the vines at Seixo are over a century old.

The year begins in winter, when the vines are bare and pruned, and the terraces are quiet. In March, the buds break, and the slopes turn green. Flowering in May and June is followed by a hot summer in which the grapes grow and ripen, and in August, they change colour. The harvest, the vindima, takes place from September into October, and it is the high point of the year, with pickers cutting bunches by hand, because the slopes are too steep for machines, and carrying them in baskets. Traditionally, the grapes were trodden by foot in shallow stone tanks, the lagares, a practice that is still kept up at some estates for the best wines, often in the evenings with music. By November, the leaves turn red and gold, and the cycle ends.

Visiting at different times gives different pleasures. Spring offers green slopes and wild flowers, and summer gives long light but strong heat. Autumn is the most photogenic and the busiest, and it is wise to book tours and meals ahead. At the estate, visitors can take part in guided visits, walks among the vines, tastings and picnics, and enjoy a restaurant with views over the valley, and the staff explain the work in the vineyard. The roads along the river are slow and winding, so allow plenty of time, and if you plan to taste, arrange a driver.

Take a hat, sunscreen and water, and wear shoes with grip for the vineyard paths. The vineyards suit wine lovers, walkers and photographers.