Castro Laboreiro Castle

Castro Laboreiro is a remote mountain village in the municipality of Melgaço, in the far north of Portugal, at about a thousand metres on a high plateau within the Peneda-Gerês National Park, close to the Spanish border. It is one of the highest and coldest settlements in the country, a place of granite, wind, and wide views, and the ruined castle above it is a reminder that this wild corner was once a frontier outpost. The fortress was built in the Middle Ages on a rocky outcrop above the settlement, in the period when the Portuguese kings were strengthening the northern border against Leon and Castile, and it served as a refuge for the people of the highlands.

The remains are modest but atmospheric. Sections of granite wall and the lower parts of towers survive on the crag, blending into the natural rock so closely that it can be hard to tell where the stone ends and the building begins. There is no large, intact keep, and the site is appreciated for its setting more than for its architecture. Paths lead up from the village, and from the top there are wide views over the plateau, a landscape of boulder-strewn slopes, heath, and pasture, with the valleys falling away to the west and the mountains of Galicia to the north.

The village has a strong character. For centuries the people of Castro Laboreiro have lived by herding cattle and sheep, moving seasonally between winter and summer settlements, known as inverneiras and brandas, to follow the pasture, a pattern of transhumance that survives in the park. Houses are built of granite, with thick walls and small windows to resist the cold, and the lanes are rough and steep. The area is also known for a breed of dog, the Castro Laboreiro, a large, strong guardian that protects flocks from wolves and has been bred here for generations. On the plateau nearby, megalithic burial mounds and standing stones date back thousands of years, and old Roman roads cross the hills.

The castle is open to visit all day, with no charge. It can be reached by the village road, which is narrow and winding, and the weather can change rapidly, with mist, rain, and strong wind, so bring warm and waterproof clothing and sturdy shoes. Services are limited, so plan meals and fuel.

The castle and village suit walkers, photographers, and travellers who value wild, quiet places. A visit takes an hour or two, and combines well with a walk across the plateau or a drive along the mountain roads of the park.