Church Of Santa Maria Do Castelo (Igreja De Santa Maria Do Castelo)

The church of Santa Maria do Castelo stands inside the castle walls of Alcácer do Sal, on the hilltop above the Sado, and it is the oldest church in the town. Its position inside the fortress tells much of its story. When the Christians took Alcácer from the Muslims in 1217, the town passed to the Order of Santiago, a military order of knights that held the castle and the surrounding territory, and the church became the centre of the religious life of the new Christian community in the stronghold.

The site had been sacred for a very long time. According to tradition and to the evidence of excavations, the hill held a temple in Roman times, when the town was known as Salacia, and under Muslim rule, a mosque stood here. Building a church on the site of an earlier place of worship was a common practice in the Christian conquest, a statement of victory as well as a practical use of an existing space. The building that you see is traditionally dated to the 13th century, in the period after the conquest, and it is described as late Romanesque in style, though like most old churches, it has been altered over the centuries, with later additions and restoration work.

The Romanesque character shows in the thick walls, the small, round-arched windows and the sober, compact shape, with a plain facade and a simple doorway. Inside, the space is austere, with a nave and aisles divided by sturdy columns and arches, and a low ceiling, and the stone has the soft, honey tone of local masonry. The decoration is sparse, since the building was designed for the use of a garrison and a small community rather than for display, though some altars and images from later centuries add warmth. The atmosphere is quiet and old.

Visiting the church is part of a walk around the castle hill. The enclosure also holds the archaeological crypt, where visitors can see the layers of Phoenician, Roman and Islamic remains beneath the castle, and the castle itself, which now includes a hotel, has terraces with views over the river, the rice fields and the town. The municipal museum, named after the mathematician Pedro Nunes, who was born in Alcácer, and the riverside promenade are at the foot of the hill. Storks nest on towers and rooftops across the town.

The church is a place of worship, so opening hours are limited and may follow the times of services, so it is wise to check at the tourist office. Dress modestly and be quiet. The visit takes about twenty minutes, but the surroundings reward a longer stay. The church suits history lovers and those who like old buildings in a setting of great age.