Eira Do Serrado Viewpoint

Eira do Serrado is one of the great viewpoints of Madeira. At about 1,095 metres, on the rim of the mountains in the municipality of Câmara de Lobos, it looks straight down into the Curral das Freiras, the Nuns' Valley, a deep, steep-sided bowl in the centre of the island, ringed by jagged peaks. The village lies at the bottom, some seven or eight hundred metres below, its red roofs and terraces looking tiny against the vast walls. The view is dizzying, with a sheer drop and a real sense of the scale of the mountains.

The valley is the remains of an ancient volcanic crater, which has been deeply eroded by water over millions of years, leaving the dramatic ridges and spurs that you see. Its name comes from a story: in 1566, French pirates attacked Funchal, and the nuns of the Convent of Santa Clara fled to this remote valley, which was then so isolated that few people knew of it. They remained there until the danger had passed, and the valley has been called the Nuns' Corral ever since. For centuries, the village was reachable only by steep mountain paths, and it kept its isolation until a road with tunnels was built in the 20th century.

Reaching the viewpoint is easy by road, thanks to a winding drive from Funchal or Câmara de Lobos. A short footpath leaves from beside the Estalagem da Eira do Serrado, the hotel at the top, and leads to a lookout on a rocky spur, partly cut into the rock, with railings. The walk takes only ten minutes or so, with some steps, and the final stretch is gently sloped. The platform is the best spot, with views in all directions, but take care near the edge and keep children close. Wind is often strong, and mist can fill the valley and hide the view, then clear again within minutes.

The village below is known for its chestnuts, which grow on the terraces and are celebrated in a festival on All Saints' Day, 1 November. The local specialities include chestnut soup, chestnut cake and a chestnut liqueur, and the valley's restaurants serve them in season. You can drive down to the village through a long tunnel, or walk along an old path, which is steep and takes a good part of the day. Many visitors do both, descending to eat chestnut soup and then returning by car.

Visit in the morning, when the air is clearest, and bring a jacket, as it is cooler than at sea level. There is a cafe at the hotel for refreshments. The viewpoint is free and open during daylight hours. It suits photographers, walkers and anyone who wants to see Madeira's mountain interior.