Laurissilva Forest

The Laurissilva is the ancient laurel forest that once covered much of southern Europe, and on Madeira it survives in the largest area anywhere in the world. UNESCO inscribed the Laurisilva of Madeira on the World Heritage List in 1999, and the protected area covers about fifteen thousand hectares of the island's mountains. The forest formed millions of years ago, when a warm, humid climate prevailed across the region, and later disappeared from the continent as the climate changed. On Madeira the sea, the mist, and the steep terrain kept the conditions that the trees need.

The forest is dominated by evergreen trees of the laurel family, with glossy dark leaves and twisted trunks covered in moss, ferns, and lichens. Species include the til, the vinhático, the barbusano, and the Madeira laurel, many of them found only on Madeira or in the neighbouring islands. The air is damp, the light is green, and the ground is soft with leaf litter. Streams run through the trees, and in the wettest parts the forest seems to drip. The Trocaz pigeon, which nests in the forest, and a number of rare plants and insects live here, and the area is rich in endemic species.

One of the best ways to enter the forest is along a levada, one of the irrigation channels cut into the mountainsides from the 16th century to carry water from the wet north and highlands to the dry south. Levada walks follow the flat channel, with a footpath alongside, and in the Laurissilva they pass through tunnels, behind waterfalls, and along cliffs. The Levada do Rei, on the north coast, is one of these routes, a trail that passes through the forest and leads to a waterfall, and the route has some exposed sections with drops beside the path, so those who dislike heights should take care. A torch is useful for tunnels, and waterproof clothing is wise, since showers are common.

Guided walks are available from Funchal and other bases, and they include transport to the start. Conditions can change quickly, with mist reducing visibility, so follow the advice of local guides and check the trail status before setting out. Fees may apply at some routes.

The forest suits walkers, botanists, bird watchers, and anyone who enjoys wild, quiet places. The experience is a reminder of a landscape that once covered a much larger region.