Levada do Rei

Levada do Rei, or the King’s Levada, is a classic Madeira hiking experience that showcases the island’s unique landscape and centuries-old irrigation tradition. Levadas are narrow channels built to transport water from the wetter north to the drier south, and today they serve as scenic walking paths through some of Madeira’s most beautiful areas. The island has more than two thousand kilometers of these channels, many of them dating from the sixteenth century, and the levada keepers who maintained them lived in small houses along the routes. The Levada do Rei trail (PR18) begins at the São Jorge Water Treatment Plant and stretches for about 10.6 kilometers (round trip), with a gentle elevation gain of around 270 meters. The hike typically takes 3.5 to 5 hours to complete, depending on pace and stops.

The trail quickly immerses hikers in the Laurisilva forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ancient laurel trees, mossy rocks and vibrant undergrowth. The Laurisilva is a remnant of the subtropical forest that once covered much of southern Europe, and it protects many plants and animals found nowhere else. The path is mostly shaded, making it comfortable even on warmer days, and the air is filled with the scent of eucalyptus and wild herbs. Along the way, hikers cross small streams, pass through tunnels of greenery and enjoy occasional glimpses of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Birdwatchers may spot chaffinches, firecrests and other endemic species flitting among the branches, and the island’s own laurel pigeon is sometimes seen in the forest. An old water mill near the trailhead, the São Jorge water mill, is a pleasant first stop.

The highlight of the walk is the arrival at Ribeiro Bonito, a secluded natural sanctuary where a small waterfall tumbles into a clear pool. This tranquil spot is a fine place for a rest, picnic or simply soaking in the sounds of nature. The return journey follows the same route, offering new perspectives on the lush landscape.

Levada do Rei is considered one of Madeira’s easier levada walks, with a well-marked and mostly flat path. However, after rain, the trail can be muddy and slippery, and hikers should be prepared for occasional wet sections and bring appropriate footwear. The trail is popular but rarely crowded, especially if started early in the day. It is also close to Santana, famous for its traditional triangular thatched houses, and a visit to the village makes a good addition to the day.

Getting to Levada do Rei is easiest by car, with parking available at the São Jorge Water Treatment Plant near Santana. Public transport options are limited, so organized tours or taxis are alternatives for those without a car. There are no facilities along the trail, so hikers should bring water, snacks and any essentials. A light waterproof jacket is also a good idea, since weather in the north can change quickly.

The best time to hike Levada do Rei is from late spring to early autumn (May to October), when the weather is mild, the forest is lush and the risk of heavy rain is lower. However, the trail is accessible year-round, and the forest’s misty ambiance can be magical even in winter. Early mornings or weekdays offer the quietest experience. For seasoned hikers and casual walkers alike, Levada do Rei promises an unforgettable journey into Madeira’s green interior.