Levada Do Rei (PR 18)

The Levada do Rei, the King's Levada, is one of the best-known official walking routes on the north coast of Madeira, and its practical side is a good guide to how walks of this kind work. The trail is classed as PR 18 and is around five kilometres long, a one-way route of moderate difficulty that takes about three and a half hours at an easy pace. It starts at the São Jorge water treatment plant, in the parish of São Jorge in the municipality of Santana, and ends in the valley of the Ribeiro Bonito, so walkers need to plan how to get back, either by arranging transport at the far end or by returning along the same route.

The route follows an irrigation channel that carries water along the mountainside, with a narrow path beside it that was built for the workers who maintained it. The levada here is lined by dense vegetation, and the walk starts in cultivated land, with small farms, vegetable plots, and orchards, before passing into forest of eucalyptus, laurel, and large ferns. The smell of eucalyptus is a distinctive feature of the early part, and further on the vegetation becomes wilder and damper as the path enters the laurel forest, which is part of the World Heritage area. Waterfalls spill down the cliffs at several points, and the sound of running water accompanies the walker throughout.

One of the highlights is a historic water mill near the start of the trail, a building of stone and wood that dates back around three centuries and is a reminder of the traditional uses of the levada's water. Grain was ground here by the force of the stream, and the mill gives an insight into the rural economy of the north coast. The path continues with views down to the sea and toward the cliffs, with some sections narrow and exposed, so those who are uneasy about heights should take care.

Access is regulated. Because of its popularity and the need to protect the area, walkers are required to register in advance through the regional online system, and an entry fee is charged for adults and older children. Check conditions before setting out, since the trail can be closed after landslides or storms. Wear shoes with good grip, carry waterproof clothing, and bring a torch for the short tunnels.

The walk suits fit walkers and nature lovers, and gives a good sample of levada walking and the laurel forest.